Many people choose the option of purchasing a living Christmas tree with the idea to plant it out in their gardens after the holidays. Here are some tips for planting the tree. First remove the tree from indoors as soon as possible and either plant it immediately or locate it in a shady spot out of the wind. Remember that most of the trees roots were severed and left in the growing field, so it will need a bit of extra care the first year especially, while it becomes established in your garden. Choose the site carefully before you plant. You should remember to consider the ultimate dimention the tree will be when mature and allow for that space. Be sure not to plant under power lines, too close to buildings, roofs, etc. Make sure the spot is well drained(remember that many of these are forest trees in the native habitat and have excellent drainage where they grow naturally. When digging your planting hole, remember to do this when the soil is not overly saturated, soggy, muddy. If the rains have not let up enough, just delay planting if your soil is too wet(but do keep the tree well watered and shaded)
If planting must be delayed, you can keep direct hot sun off the canopy with an old sheet, don’t use a tarp unless it is out of the direct sun as this can heat the tree up unnecessarily.
Make your planting hole wider than deep. This allows for ample room when backfilling the soil into the planting hole. You can make a cone/hill in the center of that hole for the root ball to rest on while you check height of the crown of the tree. You should plant slightly higher than surrounding grade as this will take into consideration the soil settling over time. When it finally settles completely, it wil be at grade, or just slightly above, which is what you are striving for.
If the tree is very tall, you can stake it. Use two stakes at each end of the hole across the diameter of the hole. Avoid piercing the root ball if possible.
Before you plant, look to see if the soil in the root ball is of a similar type to your soil. If not, you can semi bareroot the plant. taking off excess around the soil ball and exposing the roots somewhat. That rootball probably covered in burlap(which is fine) any organic material is ok, and you need to peel that down around the sides so later when it gets warmer, the material does not wick out soil mositure(that happens if it is exposed to the air, drying out the rootball prematurely, and the plant dries up too!) Removing string and excess burlap is recommended, but if buried, it will eventually decompose and turn into humus.
As you backfill the soil, you can add a small amount of soil amendment such as fir bark, but not excessivley. Mix the amendment well before you backfill. Level the tree so it is straight and at the height you want when planting is complete. Face the tree to give the best side toward the viewer/landscape. Begin to backfill soil a little at a time. You can settle the soil by watering the backfill as you go in intervals. This is Nature’s way, using water to settle soil and still leave soil structure for air spaces for the roots. Heavily compacting the backfill soil is bad for the roots. They need oxygen in the soil to live and grow and heavy compaction destroys soil structure. Continue backfilling and watering in until you have reached soil grade. You do not need to form a basin, just place a slow running hose at the base above the root ball to water when it is needed and the soil dries out a bit. If the rains stop and weather turns warm and dry, do spray the tree with water in the morning and evening to provide extra humidity for the foliage. (think snow/rains in the mountains where they grow wild, at this time of year)
The tree will not need excessive amounts of water, but be sure to water deeply when you do, making sure the root ball is well watered each time it dries out somewhat. Do not over water. Just test this by sticking your finger deeper into the planting area to check for moisture.
